Saturday, August 31, 2019

Drive to Rahohira the gateway to Isalo National Park

Another reasonably long drive today through a   countryside with a tapestry of colours.  The driver slowed for a burnt out truck - locals had rescued some of the load.  Spaghetti tonight for tea - and perhaps the next few nights. And a few truck parts to sell.


We were in the highlands - a picturesque landscape with interesting vegetation and lots of mountains against another blue sky. Same story - when we stop for a photo opportunity or a pee in the bush children come from nowhere to look at us and the bus. Many don't want to sell anything just curiosity brings them running - the Mr Whippy effect.  Sometimes I felt  like we were the animals in the zoo.

As we drive along we continue to see people walking. Some carrying a load on their back, others with nothing. All with a purpose- where are they going?


We stopped at Ambalavao. Home to a local paper factory and watched the process of taking bark from the avoca tree and turning it into useful things like note books, menu covers and cards. Hard work  thumping and stirring until the pulp thins and hardens.

The town is as also home to the 2nd biggest zebu market and the tuk tuk.







Our next stop was at a community run, government subsidized home for the ring tailed lemur. Before finding the lemurs we were introduced to the rare Madagassy pink chickens.  Mother Hens still recognize their babies even when they are coloured pink - apparently to stop the birds of prey from eating them  - who think the babies are plastic bags. It works apparently.  The lemurs were fantastic.  Pretty uncaring of us humans fascinated by their play, eating, grooming and sleeping.






And then down the other side of the mountains - into cattle grazing country - where the locals take pride in stealing others zebu and hiding them in the hills. Their very small houses, little education and rough living certainly hides the wealth of this cattle rustling community.  The only indication of hidden money is the solar panels sitting in the doorways of these one roomed mud huts.  It is here we see woman wearing face masks for the first time. Caked on stuff cover their faces - in an attempt to lighten their skin. They have such wonderful complexions I feel sad to that they aspire to look more like me (with less wrinkles).

This made me think of the advertisements we see within the towns. In Nepal we noticed many ads for curtains, pharmaceuticals, cars had European women draped over them. Not so much here which I am pleased to say. I have only seen a couple - one with European babies advertising disposable nappies (surely not a good idea) and one for trousers.

We stop at Isohy town and have a short walk while the van is refuelled. As we walk into town it looks like an interesting place. There is a funeral going on. People are dancing in the street celebrating the life of an elderly person. The main street appears to be lined by two storey buildings. I was vaguely disappointed when we turned the corner before we had had a nosey down the main drag. Even more disappointed when we started to walk alongside a rubbish filled drain. The stench was indescribable - all I can say is I was never more pleased to be back on the bus.
Then its onto the plateau. A rather flat, uninteresting landscape before the night arrives. We keep on driving for a bit longer.



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