On our way to Hwange national park

Our last breakfast in Victoria Falls.

Over fruit, cornflakes, omelette and potato we reflected on our few days in Victoria Falls. People say it is touristy and they are probably right but there is something quaint about it other tourist stops don't have.  Examples are going out for dinner at a local restaurant- most of us didn't get our first choice or even our second - no power means little can be cooked on the gas. Then all the shops are dark- difficult shopping for even the most enthusiastic. Staff sit on the floor to keep cool and don't bother to get up as they know we won't buy cos we can't see.  There is a risk of injury if you don't say hello and then locate the lying legs.

Other places run out of water. We were having a sandwich and a teenager walked backwards and forwards at least a dozen times with a 20 litre bucket empty out, full in. She looked rather resigned that this was her lot for the day.

Locals battle on, relaxed and cheerful- a lesson for when we have our next power cut or small problem that annoys us.

It is easy to walk around. We felt very safe even the peddlers knew when to stop. Lots of trees to shade us, and a few places to sit and have a drink.

There is a constant drone of helicopters. The flying patterns were studied by Harry - surprise surprise you say. They don't fly all the time but when they do they circle the falls like a flock of dragon flies.

Weather is wonderful - mid 20's and no wind.

I have wandered the hotel grounds this morning and hadn't appreciated the extent of the garden before.

Some of the things we are glad we bought ... little gifts for special occasions, our umbrellas, our Kathmandu pack sacks and little day packs. We haven't used our warm coats yet but there is still time. We wish we had bought more $1 notes for tipping- nearly run out already.

Before leaving we stopped at the supermarket. Our guide told us to buy a 5 litre bottle of water each and lunch for on the road. Doughnuts, scones, oranges and chippies is all we could find. Had difficulty paying by card, although most places accept cards the network is often down.

Then we were on the road - a surprisingly good one all the way till we turned onto a dirt track to the lodge. Passed little communities, wonderfully dressed school children, goats, pigs, cows and little thatched cottages. Amazing scenery.  Acacia  trees and Zambian teak lining dry river beds.  Autumn colors and tangled branches of fallen trees (elephants do most of the damage). Had fun at the various toilet stops.  As usual the queue for the girls was a lot longer than the boys so Harry was guard as we gate crashed the boys. Some had no water (yuck), others had cute little chains and some no doors at all.

We stopped at the sanctuary for painted dogs. There are only two at the moment  who can't be returned to the wild due to disabilities. We learnt that this attractive and rare breed of dog are born underground, are being poached to extinction and that not only is there a sanctuary for the dogs there is an education centre for 11 and 12 year olds. They run 23 programmes a year for 45 children each time. Apparently the educators are seeing significant roll on effects with campers educating their younger siblings.

We found our cabins (wooden with thatched roofs overlooking a lagoon) and went for our first safari which finished on a small hill, with some drinks and a great sunset.  In the evening we sat around a camp fire and were told not to venture out after dark as we could meet an elephant or lion. I did wonder what the electric fence was for but then noticed they left the gate open permanently.

The next day we were on safari again. A full day where we saw an amazing array of animals. Also huge termite hills (I am a quite taken with them - one that stands a meter high is over 500 years old). Hwange national park was established in 1928. Man made water holes are now filled with solar powered bores and animals graze happily. They have established a 30 km wide forest to try and prevent the animals from wandering into villages and ruining their crops. It appears to be working. So what did we learn? Elephants like acacia seeds. Chocolate coloured seeds wrapped in creamy nougat and covered in a velvety outer coating.outside. The elephant put there forehead on a tree, a horn on each side and shake it until enough seeds fall. Bird nests sway and I could just picture two little chicks hanging on tight and saying "that was a big one, centered just below us and about 6.5".  Anyway the elephants tummy isn't made to digest seeds and they come out the other end. Guinea fowl aren't fussy - they eat the seeds glad they haven't had to extract them from the other coatings. I think I would rather go with but I guess that is the circle of life. Elephants love to frolic in the mud. It dries off eventually and the parasites fall off with the mud.

Another nice meal and conversation around a bonfire before we start the return journey to Victoria Falls tomorrow.

And just before I sign off what do you think of this loo with a view.  A day view and a night time view of elephants at the water hole. Sometimes its worth having to get up in the middle of the night.