La Paz

Unbelievabley the bus station was very busy at 5.15 in the morning. Not sure why, but we were lucky to be assigned front row seats on the top deck of the bus.  I imagined the grand kids sitting there enjoying the trip alongside the lake and over fairly rough roads.

In some ways the trip was similar to the bus ride to Puno - little villages, horticulture,  animals but there were also some differences.

We had to cross the border into Bolivia. I always find border crossings slightly nerve racking but we had a guide specially appointed by G Adventures.  There were four buses waiting to go through the customs point - and I think we were number three.  Bags hauled out of the luggage compartment, we waited our turn. First there was a queue for leaving Peru - photo taken and passport stamped, then there was another queue for entering Bolivia - photo taken, passport stamped and the online entry application scanned (I have forgotten to mention the trouble we had filling out the online application. Harry filled it out first - "no spaces are allowed" it said and threw him back to the beginning.  He tried three times and got the same statement.  Half an hour later I suggested we try my phone - and it worked first time.  So then we did Harry's application and bingo!). Then a very long queue to put our bags through the scanner - I think the scanner broke down once, but eventually we were back on the bus ready to go.  

On the way:

• We passed three more check points, they had police in them but we didn't stop.
• Got held up by a thousand (slight exaggeration but not by much) trucks lining both sides of the road heading for Peru - many carrying petrol, some scrap metal and other stuff.
• People in the middle of the streets attempting to sell drivers food and drink - something the truck drivers may have appreciated.
• Lots of buildings that were 4 or 5 storeys (mostly not finished) made of brick with workers wearing no safety equipment or hard hats.
• Lots of little houses built for animals to shelter in.
• More wonderful views of the mountains.

It was another frustrating day for the photographer.  Harry grabbed the window seat so it was his job and he had an excellent view out the front window barring the huge crack down the window, the large black lettering advertising the bus company, the power poles and lines and very bumpy roads - he did his best!

We hit our first big city El Alto which sits on a plateau over looking La Paz. It was built in 1985 (I think because La Paz was over populated).  It took a long time to navigate the streets, which was ok as I enjoyed seeing the brown housing estates dwarfed by mountains and the range of shops (even though it was Sunday and most were shut).  Harry watched the cars go by and decided that most of the fleet were Toyota.

We had been told that our hotel would not have power until 5 o'clock (they were working on the wires), so we climbed two flights of stairs  in the dark aided by our trusty hats with their lights.  

There wasn't a lot to do, so we all headed to a restaurant for a late lunch - walking some of the cobbled and decorated streets. 

The next day we went on a city tour, which involved a lot of information which I have already forgotten - sorry to those of you who like lots of history - this isn't the blog for you.

Our first stop was the famous prison where you could bribe a guard to spend the night or two in a cell (I guess with or without another prisoner).  Tom McFadden is a famous drug lord and inmate who apparently managed a fairly cushy life (bribery was involved) during his stay.  I think Brad Pitt has bought the film rights to a movie.

A couple of buildings and trees sport a number of bullet holes - a reminder of the turbulent history of this city since its independence from Spain in 1835.

The little square was full of people selling corn to feed to the pigeons while others tried to shine my trainers and sell me juice and food (but in a polite not pushy way).

There was a tall building and clock tower on one side of the square.   At first glance it looked "normal" but when we were asked to look again and noticed all the numbers were going anti clockwise and so were the hands (confusingly that could also be clockwise depending on your perspective).  Apparently, the leader at the time was tired of following northern hemisphere leaders and traditions and so decided clockwise would be in the other direction.  Not sure if the locals cottoned on to that one.

The altitude is still playing havoc with our breathing. We were rather naive about altitude sickness.  When the doctor said "rest" I assumed she meant for a few days - not every day we were about 1000 metres.  

Then we had a ride on a gondola (three out of four actually).  The gondolas have alleviated some of the congestion in La Paz.  They were built by an Austrian company and funded totally from the local oil reserves.  Tickets are cheap, and locals regularly use them to get from A to B.  So cheap, they have estimated it will take the 300,000 passengers a day, 100 years before the gondolas start making money - not sure if they have factored in the  maintenance costs.

It was an enjoyable ride looking down on the city and noting the number of brightly coloured steps leading up to houses (and I thought living in Wellington kept you fit!).

The bus took us up a windy and dusty road to the Valley of the moon. So named, after Neil Armstrong played golf near here and imagined that the moon would be similar geologically to the valley.  That was before he actually flew to the moon. It was pretty spectacular - similar to the Pinnacles and Omarama - but bigger.

Some more interesting facts...

• Military service is compulsory - but you can get an exemption for a number of reasons.  The punishment of not fulfilling your military obligations is a tertiary student can not get awarded their degree until they have completed the one year of military service.  
• Voting in elections is  compulsory.  No fines for those who refuse to vote, they are just barred from interacting with any banking or government organisation for three months (including ATMs I think) - that's probably more effective than a fine.
• The houses are mostly brown - the natural colour of the local building materials.  Apparently, if they are painted it gives the impression you are wealthier than others and you are required to pay more tax - and who wants to do that? 
• Witchcraft is very strong here - and we wandered more than once past the witchcraft shops where naturally aborted llama, sheep, dog and pig foetus's hung above the shop doors.  This was quite confronting - but it got worse.  At the bus station I noticed a number of photographs of missing people.  Our guide told me that often when someone practicing witchcraft is building a home, it is good luck to put at least one body inside the concrete foundation!