Greymouth

We stayed at an old monastery in Greymouth which had been painted and decorated in the Noahs Ark theme - we slept with tigers.  Although, original the theme and artistry didn't quite do it for me - after all it was a monastery not a zoo - although for the less critical there is a religious theme I guess. We had booked a twin room but discovered that this meant twin beds in a room of 5 so an 'upgrade' that cost us another $25 meant we had 5 beds to chose from and no one else to share with.  We are really getting a tad old for sharing bedrooms.  The place didn't feel very clean and after finding some long hairs in my sheets, and having breakfast prepared around other peoples crumbs we decided to have a second breakfast out and not cook anything much there.  Over the moan now ...

Anyway, our digs weren't far from the town centre but first of all we climbed to the look out.  This is West Coast humour at their best.  Huge steps, mud and slippery slopes led us and two other tourists to the top.  The view was heavily hidden by the grown trees and we all burst out laughing at the effort it took to see a few trees and a small view of the river.  One of those memorable moments...


We had dinner at the Speights Hotel (good meal), and enjoyed a wander around the town and up to the place where the river meets the sea.  Quite spectacular in high tide and a place where many a local goes to eat their fish and chips.  It was cold and we ventured over the other side of the river to Cobden.  Then the rain and wind began... and by morning street lights had been blown over, and the Hari Hari Bridge further south had been washed away.  Our trip to Moana was a ride through the puddles rather than a walk around the lake and our drive to Arthurs Pass didn't eventuate as the road was flooded cutting off the small settlement.  

Not far from Greymouth along the Grey river is the Brunner mine.  Another story here of people working hard for an income and the suffering that went within the mining industry and about living in such a climate and geography.  

The next day we headed to Hokitika (where two churches beautfiully painted were closed due to the earthquake risk).  

Then on to Shantytown where we managed to time our visit just right - our walk around was in the dry but we ended up in the car for another picnic lunch - eating and watching raindrops.  This is Seddon country.  Richard Seddon a man really quite ahead of his times.  He was born in Lancashire in 1845 and both parents were teachers. Typical boy - he didn't do too well at school; described as unruly.  Imagine the family atmosphere at the time of reading his report.  So, he took off and after working in a foundry in Liverpool he emigrated to Australia where he worked for a while in railway workshops.  He went hunting for gold - the thing to do back then; got engaged much to the chagrin of her family who would not permit the marriage until Seddon was more financially secure.  So, he decided to make money on the West Coast of NZ.  From here his interest in politics began and was elected as the Hokitika MP in 1881 and remained an MP until he died in 1906. At some point the family gave in and he married his Aussie sweetheart.  He is well known in Wellington (created first official green areas) and in 1898 passed the  Old-age Pensions Act of 1898, which established the basis of the welfare state.  He however, did not support women's suffrage - votes for woman etc - how could he not!!  

At Shanty Town we also saw the best job ever...Well educated young lady required for homestead could have a job for $120 (todays money).  Just look at the things she has to do - 5.5 hours sleep a night if she was lucky - and we think we have it rough!

And a friendly Weka

By this time the car was dusty in the doors, wet and muddy outside and very crumbly inside (french bread isn't easy to eat at the best of times).

Oh, forgot to mention we went to see the smallest little school house on the way to Lake Brunner.  A real cutie and we learnt about another man way ahead of his times.  Edward Darracott was a school teacher who arrived in Kotuku in 1935, 30 years after the school was opened to teach children from families working in the local sawmill.  The quotes say it better than I ever could...

"Consider the prospect - the shingle pits, swamps and barren hillocks and over all an atmosphere gloomy and despondent.  This was the environment of the pupils attending Jack's Mill School at the beginning of 1935.

Darracott decided he would 'enhance the environment'


"Surely if beautiful thoughts and ideals are to be inculcated in the minds of these children, radical changes must be wrought in their surroundings as well as in their attitude of mind towards the finer issues of life".  As a result the pupils created a garden, lawn, planted shrubs and build concrete paths.  3 years later under the first Labour Govenment he began an 'experimental learning' with older children...

"...it has seemed to me, that the teaching, particularly in the two senior classes should be along more practical lines and that above all the child should be taught to think for himself, not take his lessons spoon-fed from the hands of the lecturer.  More still, this training to think and to act should be in situations as life-like as possible.  Too long has the school been divorced from life as it is to be lived by the child afterwards."

And as a result a little school house was built to help children learn how to build - a 2/3 scale model which was used for cooking and carpentry classes afterward.

So, it the weather was a tad disappointing - no bike ride round Greymouth - no walk around the lake or near Arthurs Pass - but we soon got over it.  After a heartening lunch at McDonalds (not a lot else open) we decided to go the long way to Christchurch a day earlier.  No stop at the top to see the Alpine Mosses, or at the hot pools, but we did get as far as Hurunui for an evening 
meal.

another stop over for the coaches on their way from Nelson to Christchurch.