Monday, April 28, 2008

ANZAC weekend

25th April - a very special day in the minds of many New Zealanders and Australians. Being away from home over the week made us feel quite nostalgic for the commemorations marking the anniversary, our family and friends, and yes ANZAC biscuits - how I wished we had baked some cos we can't buy them here. But our spirits were buoyed with Zane coming to see us during the week. We had a nice dinner with him and a bit of an explore around the Clifton Suspension Bridge on a sunny Spring evening before he took off with his Satnav set for Weston Supermare.

We decided to go to Dover for the weekend where we could pay our own private tribute to the many who fought in the wars and look across at Dunkirk (we were looking forward to a day trip but the only ferry that went directly there did not take foot passengers and all the others went to Calais - so we will make it another time). Dover, now seems focussed on the shipping industry - we sat on the cliffs listening to the constant announcements by different shipping lines in French, German and English and were surprised, but pleased as well, to see the road directions in the three languages as well. Given the accident rate of heavy goods vehicle in England any action to help prevent these is a good thing (on the way down we saw an articulated truck lying on its side - glad we weren't anywhere near that when it happened).
There'll be bluebirds over the white cliffs of Dover,
Tomorrow, just you wait and see.
I'll never forget the people I met braving those angry sky's
I remember well as the shadows fell the light of hope in their eyes
and though I'm far away I still can hear them say
Sun's up for when the dawn comes up
There'll be bluebirds over the white cliffs of Dover,
Tomorrow, just you wait and see.
There'll be love and laughter and peace ever after.
Tomorrow, when the world is free...

It was a superb Spring day for wandering the hills above the cliffs and we spent many hours walking along the hills exploring the limestone cliffs and walking down to the beaches. We didn't see any blue birds but we did see lots of fun and laughter and sea gulls as we looked across the busy channel (500 ships a day - the channel is in lanes and woe-be-tide the captain who goes the wrong way up the channel - arrest and prosecution is likely) to the coast of France. We weren't the only ones wandering those hills and admiring the cliffs - there were many of different ages, sizes and nationalities including at least two groups of Germans. It made me realise that for those fighting the war it was probably not just about protecting their land but also their culture and identity. I think they were also fighting for all to have the freedom to respectfully enjoy and explore England and Europe. We are soon making a trip to Berlin and I would like to think winning the war meant we can have that same freedom in other countries.

We wandered into the South Foreland Lighthouse (my first inside view of a lighthouse). It was built in 1843 and together with another lighthouse helped to steer the many ships travelling through the channel from a sand bank (ships caught sank quickly). There was a map on a wall with the names of over 500 ships that have sank in the area since the 1500's and since three ships involved the loss of over 1000 lives you can only guess how many have died. This is where pirates lit fires along the cliff tops to misguide the ships in the hope of a grounding and taking some loot - I'd read stories about that!! 'The lighthouse has been at the forefront of technological innovation over the years. It has been the site for many trial lighting systems, most importantly Michael Faraday's experiments with electricity which led in 1858 to it being the first lighthouse to have an electrically supplied navigation light. In 1898 it was the base used by Italian inventor Guglielmo Marconi to demonstrate his radio telegraphy or wireless system'...first ship to shore and then between the coast of France and England. The lighthouse was run on sperm whale oil for most of its early life ... doesn't smoke alot but boy can it smell we are told. I am sure the whales were pleased electricity was invented. Harry took some photos of the clock that turns the lights (a bit like the cuckoo clock) and he was intrigued that it sat in a pool of mercury to help it rotate smoothly. From the lighthouse we wandered along the hills and down some paths to St Margaret's at Cliffe where as we coffee'd, our telephones welcomed us and a few other customers to France by text. We later saw a motorcyclist with a full helmet on answering his cell phone and then realising that he couldn't hear or be heard. He looked quite confused about what to do!! We hoped the caller was not 'welcoming him the France' as well. We were told by some locals that Noel Coward and Peter Ustinov used to live (at different times) in the white house at the end of the bay - but there were plenty of white houses to choose from so we never did work out which one.
The Battle of Britain memorial was quite special. (The last time Britain was invaded was in 1066 - just along the road at Hastings - though there wasn't much to see when we wandered up the hill there late on Sunday afternoon - instead of catching the water powered cable car - it had been hit by lightening last year and when they replaced the parts they didn't work properly and the cable car careered through the doors at the bottom of the cliff - we were happy to walk!). Anyway, back to the memorial. Huge, designed like a propellor which you could walk around viewing aircraft, memorials to fallen soldiers, a statue of Bob the squadrons dog and the stories of heroes - quite moving. There were signs warning us not to venture into the undergrowth as adders lived there so we trod carefully so we could take photos of the coastline, but noticed that the rabbits were quite happy to play in ignorance.
On Sunday we drove through what I call 'Hi de hi' country and passed a number of military training grounds and the Homes of Television and British Motor Racing and Jane Austen country. Some of the beach side cities were quite picturesque and busy but not quite our thing but the country in spring time is another story. The beaches were mainly pebbly and we sat at Hythe and had morning tea on the promenade (peaceful and quiet until the roller bladers came along and a troop of walkers walking their labradors), lunch at Hastings (on the pebbles looking across at all the protection built against erosion) and afternoon tea at Cowdray Manor House (where Queen Elizabeth 1 rode in her carriage up to the front gate - we walked where once royalty rode!! - and we mused at rugby fields being a metre from a historic building). Erosion control is huge here. There wasn't much at the White Cliffs because they are so high and it would destroy the natural beauty (I think there is more limestone underneath the cliffs as they slowly get taken to the sea) but along the coast between Folkestone and Hastings there were high concrete walls created as promenades for cyclists, walkers, skaters etc and rocks on the sea side. Huge effort compared to some of the erosion control along the coasts of NZ. We stopped at a military museum in Eastbourne where two restored tanks had been donated in the 1980's. Lovingly restored by enthusiasts they had been left outside and were slowly rusting away - as metal does when sitting by the seaside. We wondered at the fairness of museums accepting donations when they can't look after the gifts which represent so much time, energy and money. That's it for another week - back to possible petrol shortages due to strikes by oil refinery staff, work and planning the next adventure.




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