More walking around

We started the day at Palemo Gardens about 30 minutes drive south of the city where Clive and Nicky started planting in the early 80's. Palm trees grown from seed now stand majestically guarding the house and garden (together with the noisy dachshunds).  The bamboo garden stood high and the lake a perfect background for a wedding (starting at 4 this afternoon). Heaps of cactus (wished we had worn long trou) and pottery and quirky places for cups, chandeliers and tea pots.  We lunched at Lake Wiritoa. The grass area was carless until we settled into chairs and opened our lunch boxes. Then about 6 arrived at the same time together with boats, jetskies and biscuits. Whanganui really does have it all - lake, sea, river, opera week (that lasts 13 days) and a vintage weekend.

We then went for a tour of Putiki church. We arrived an hour early (with the intention of a walk and a bit of an explore). A crowd was forming by the gate so we took our chances and joined. The Churton family reunion plus us and another two. Two guides Simon our official one who told us about the paintings and weaving. We should have escaped - but didn't. On came the other guide. Another 45 minutes of listening to family history. The church was built in 1935 - the others were made from brick (didn't get through earthquake), made from white pine (borer, rats, rot) and sandstone (local but crumbling). Reminded me of a fairy tale that starred three little pigs.

It was the sunniest day so far, lovely and warm. Perfect for relaxing with a good book. In the evening we did the walk along the river between the three bridges. Dinner was at a pub called The Red something with a view of the river - rather a nice way to spend new year's eve and the food was very good. And then Die Hard 2 is on tv (together with the Trivago ad every ad break - I promise never to use  them - there is something about too much advertising).

Up to Pipiriki

Today was our river road tour. Another fairly late start saw us meandering up the road - lots of stops on the way. We walked for an hour up to a viewpoint. Disappointingly not through a lot of native bush. About half way up we joined a track which was possibly made for vehicles when they were exploring the possibility of creating a hydro power dam which never eventuated.  It was the first hot day we've had and we were prepared for cold - no sunblock and  only one bottle of H2O. Tuis sang, bees buzzed around the flowering manuka. Way below were the hives. Real manuka honey in the making flavoured with dandelions and gorse. The view was ok - but not as spectacular as we had seen along the road. From the top the river was hidden, but lots of manuka and pongas intermingled with more gorse made for a pretty scene.

We had lunch at a park beside the road. Sheltered and with a slight fragrance of compost in the air. We didn't stay long. Next stop was the culvert created during the building of the road. Rather pretty. The road wound it's way  around using the same contours as the river. Each bridge hid a narrow and deep cataract gorge, water running below but often hidden by the bush.

Then there were the maraes. Quite a number, beautifully renovated and welcoming. 

Jerusalem was our next stop. Little catholic church perched on the hill. Inside a blend of Catholicism with Maori culture. Outside the Virgin  Mary surrounded by plum trees and hydrangeas. Harry had a snooze in the car and I enjoyed a read in the shade and an explore of the school and orphanage - home to Sister Suzanne Aubert and somewhere close by James K Baxter lived in his commune.

Then on to Pipiriki - the end of the line. Harry had memories as a teenager arriving here  from his kayaking trip down the river. We came to the end of the road and instead of finding a landing spot we came across over flowing waste management containers and rusty whiteware - a reminder that humans can destroy anywhere even when it is remote and beautiful.

Last stop before a fish and chip dinner was the oyster cliffs - fossilized oysters who once lived in the sea now occupy the crumbling sandstone cliffs.

More gardens and windy beaches

We picnicked on the lawn at the Bason Botanical Gardens. A sheltered and sunny spot, good for eating and reading. The gardens were gifted to the city by previous owners. Whanganui has some wonderful benefactors and volunteers and the city seemed to have grasped the opportunity with both hands. We wandered through conservatories, up and down valleys of wetlands, gums, kauri, rimu and flower gardens. 

Castlecliff beach. I can't remember ever going there before but Harry had in another life. I was expecting something like yesterday's little gem (perhaps minus a few signs), perhaps a cliff?Wind swept (that's ok), long sandy beach cut by the river to the south (quite a dramatic scene as river meets sea).Not a walking day. The town isn't the cute little seaside village though. It has quite a bit of industry (eg petfood), but I guess the appeal is in the cute little seaside cottages surrounded by grass (few plants enjoy that strong, sandy and salty wind). So  we didn't stay long. Went to the info centre. "What's happening on new years eve?" we asked. "We only know what people tell us" I was told. Really I thought - a bit of proactive googling from the info centre could be useful. I had already done that and knew the answer "not a lot". So we had a coffee, wandered through the winter gardens and along the river before going back to our digs for some pasta.