Monday, March 28, 2011

Kent

Our first stop this weekend was Brooklands Musuem which includes the remnants of the first purpose-built motor racing circuit in the world (built in 1907). It was where British motorsport and aviation (home of Concorde) began and where many technological initiatives were explored and progressed. It was a Harry heaven. For me, the best part of the day was the glorious sunshine so when I had seen plenty I found a seat in the sun and soaked up all that Vitamin D. I sat far away from the various scout groups that arrived at a similar time to us (great to see the enthusiasm of the young) and I smiled at the mother trying to explain to her daughter what a typewriter was - computers have existed for ever according to the young!! It was a good day out. Probably the best bit for both of us was the wander through the Concorde - we've been in these planes before at other museums but this one was a bit different as it was the first production Concorde built in Britain - design work began in the late 1950's. It really is quite a sleak piece of machinery. We also had a simulator drive in a 1997 McLaren MP4/12 and a Napier Ralton special 1930's - just to feel the difference in the handling between an older car and the later one. My first experience as a motor car racing driver!!










 A couple of other highlights was seeing BABS (the car where Perry attempted to regain the land speed record from Donald Campbell in the Bluebird). While going 170 miles an hour the car slewed sideways killing Perry. They buried the car in the Pendine Sands and it stayed there until 1960. Also the Sultan of Oman's VC10 was on show - luxury at altitude.


Across the road from Brooklands is the Mercedes Benz museum - and this is where I opted for more Vitamin D and the newspaper while Harry went to investigate (he came out with a little red car as well as some enthusiastic tales of what he saw inside). We had quite a lot of fun racing the little car up and down the corridor in the hotel that evening - but I am not really sure if we should admit that to anyone!! One of the highlights at the museum was a Mercedes Benz Formula 1 car suspended in pieces from the ceiling.


Then it was onto to Ashdown Forest - where Winnie the Pooh and his friends rambled and played. We stopped at Pooh Corner and found an Eeyore, who took us on the tour around the North Pole, Eeyores Sad and Gloomy Place, Place of Enchantment, Roos Sandpit and the Heffalump Track while the sun was setting and the shadows were getting longer. I can remember reading Winnie the Pooh back when I was 6 or 7. We were on a family camping trip at Hatepe (round the shores of Lake Taupo) and I was given the book for Christmas. Mum and Dad wanted to go to Taupo and I wanted to read so I sat in the back reading and got terribly car sick as the Ford Prefect negotiated the windy and hilly roads. Unfortunately, I can't remember much about the stories now but I was still looking forward to exploring the Forest. The Winnie the Pooh stories have been around a lot longer than I have. It is thought that Winnie got his name from a bear brought from Winnipeg by a Canadian soldier who spent most of his life in London Zoo. It is sad to think that AA Milne gave so many children pleasure except his own son Christopher Robin who blamed his Dad for all the teasing he got at boarding school - apparently they never got on. It might be worth reading Christopher's autobiographies now (they're called The Enchanted Places and The Path Through the Trees). Tunbridge Wells was a good place to stay - fairly central with lots of food places to choose from (Asian one night and Indian the next).


Eltham Palace (with a silent h) is a 1930s Art Deco mansion and was on our itinerary the next day. It was built by a wealthy family called the Courtauld's next to the remains of an earlier Eltham Palace which was the childhood home of Henry VIII. To get permission to build the house the family had to restore the Great Hall which the King probably played in. The house is apparently one of the finest examples of Art Deco architecture in England (it has probably been in programmes like Agatha Christies Poirot). The entrance hall with white furniture probably made the most impression, but there were some pretty luxurious bathrooms and also the renovated Great Hall that stood out a bit. No piccies allowed inside - various reasons flashes can destroy old things and security (there was an arrest of a National Trust member last week who cased some stately homes before stealing antiques from them). We enjoyed the wander around the gardens, had a picnic on the grass and then went to be a 'tourist for the day' in local Eltham (we were given a leaflet and thought it would be fun).



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The Bob Hope Little Theatre (Bob Hope was born in Eltham in the early 1900's) is just around the corner from the Palace. We were taken to the auditorium to watch a stage set being created - if we were locals we would be regular attendees of the shows - they looked well priced and a good range of musicals and dramas. We could have also slid down the pole at the local fire station but decided to give that a miss and headed for the local church where we were again offered a free cup of tea and cake by an equally welcoming group of people. One woman had been to NZ and told us of her visit to Eltham in Taranaki (she tried to get the locals to say Eltam but it didn't wash with them). Anyway, apparently during the war the kiwi Eltham parishioners sent tins of butter to the UK Eltham church which they shared over morning tea after the Sunday service. She also told the story of two aborigines visiting Eltham named Bennelong and Yemmerrawannie in the 1790's. Unfortunately Yemmerrawannie died during his visit but Bennelong returned to Aussie. There seems to be some debate on whether these two gentleman were treated with respect or paraded as curiosities. I read that the visit was probably prompted by the then Governor General who asked the two Aborigines to accompany him back to England. The reason for the visit appears to be imparting knowledge to the English during their visit to aid understanding between the cultures.  From the bit of reading I have done I don't think it worked!!
And then onto Greenwich where we explored the Old Royal Naval College buildings a little bit more. We had a quick tour of the Queens House which is now a museum, sat in the chapel for quite a bit longer admiring the ceiling and walls while resting our weary feet and listening to the orchestra and choir rehearsing Haydn's The Creation, and also visited the Painted Hall, which is rather an elaborate dining hall decorated with a number of paintings by James Thornhill (a bit dark and gloomy for someone who likes light but still quite magnificent).





Thursday, March 17, 2011

Exeter

We received our census papers this week.  What a different way of handling it to NZ.  Pushed through the letter box and with a postal address to send it back to there is no guarantee everyone will fill it out.  No 'individual' information wanted on defacto relationships (ie you are either never married or in a civil partnership, married, separated, divorced or widowed or a few other options which don't fit our situation at all).  The ethnicity questions asks me if I am white, black, mixed, multiple or other.  I'll enjoy filling it out - though if I don't I have a feeling we won't get chased - I can do it online as well.
We visited Exeter - it is not far away - but it is one of those places you pass by when going somewhere else. Originally settled by the Romans (little evidence of that except for remnants of a city wall that has been patched by many over the centuries).  There are some lovely old buildings which managed to escape the bombings of WWII. In the 16th century a canal was built and the quay was built which provides a focus for the town (the scene for the Onedin Line - yes some of us are old enough to remember that tv series).  Along the quayside are warehouses built into the cliffs which have been renovated and turned into little boutique shops selling a range of high quality jewellery, pottery, wooden things. We wandered around the wharves and crossed the bridge to the other side (if we were lazy we could have caught the cable boat for 50p). We then wandered up the hill to the town and the cathedral taking more photos along the way.












We wandered the town for a while enjoying the relaxed atmosphere of the place and found an amazing chocolate shop.  After blind folding Harry and putting a peg on his nose I managed to steer him out of the shop without any purchases.   Funny though - while we were standing in the Exeter passages way below ground level the guide told us that we were directly under Hotel Chocolat.  From the look on Harry's face I could tell he had an inspiration - it involved dynamite and a pick axe!! The passages were built to provide Exeter with a water supply back in Roman times - water was piped through lead pipes that sat in passages (rather than tunnels they were created in small valleys and a brick roof built over them).  The passages are small - I even banged my hard hat on the roof and had to walk sideways along some of them. I did wonder how the ghost cyclist managed to get through and perhaps that is why we didn't see him - he only cycles the passages when no-one is around. We had dinner in Exmouth and watched the game between Wales and Ireland which Wales won - it wasn't a particularly inspiring game (but my Welsh workmates didn't seem to care) and at half time I went for a wander along the beach - it was golden sand!!


We've decided to try and see some more local scenery and on Sunday we visited Oldbury Court Estate - it has been around for a while as it was first mentioned in the Domesday Book but we've only just discovered the place about 10 miles away.  The park runs down to the River Frome and has lots of spring flowers, places for kids to play, squirrels that have plenty of trees to escape from barking dogs.  It took the little terrier a long time to realise he was never going to catch a squirrel by standing at the trunk of the tree barking.  We actually think the squirrel was teasing him. Kids swam in the river (pretty cold) but we were happy to walk along beside the flowing water and then up the hill back to our picnic. Before venturing back to the house we had a quick wander through the Arnos Vale Cemetery (my idea not Harry's).  It is so like Karori cemetery - old, broken gravestones, long grass and a group of 'friends' attempting to tidy it up. It has a history which is why I was keen to visit.  In the mid 1800's it was decided that Bristol's old graveyards were a bit overcrowded and a health hazard. A 'stylish yet spacious alternative' was created and a cemetery that would be filled with sun, fresh air, trees was created by designing it on classical Greece landscape.  Little can be seen of what was created but still an interesting place, as cemeteries go.

 This week our thoughts are with the people of Japan and the devastation of their country.

Sunday, March 13, 2011

Killerton

The week started off with a demotion to the the beginners dance lesson - our choice - we are not very good and with having missed a couple of lessons found we were leaving each lesson more mystified than when we arrived. We think we have now mastered the basic turn in a waltz and can do the cha cha and quick step but not very well - perseverance is still required!!  We also went to Chess.  The show is up there for us with Billy Elliot, Wicked and Blood Brothers. We didn't know the story well - so did a bit of research - it was written by Tim Rice and the 2 guys from ABBA Bjorn and Benny. The story is about a game of chess during the cold war when a stroppy American (based on Bobby Fischer I gather) plays a good looking young Russian. A Hungarian woman (the manager of the American) falls in love with the Russian and the Russian defects leaving his wife and children in Russia. Next year the competition is in Bangkok - a rematch but the Russian wife turns up - you can just imagine the emotional turmoil.  We enjoyed it immensely but as I was walking out I heard some one say 'it was ok' - you can't please everyone!! My favourite song...
Nothing is so good it lasts eternally
Perfect situations must go wrong
But this has never yet prevented me
From hoping for too much for far too long
Looking back I could have played it differently
With a few more moments, who can tell?
But it took time to understand the man
Now at least I know I know him well
Wasn't it good?
(Oh so good)
Wasn't he fine?
(Oh so fine)
Isn't it madness he won't be mine
But in the end he needs a little bit
More than me, more security
(He needs his fantasy and freedom)
I know him so well
No one in your life is with you constantly
No one is completely on your side
And though I move my world to be with him
Still the gap between us is too wide ...

Friday night we went out for dinner to a little Italian restaurant down the road with Jane and David. We had a nice time with some yummy non-pizza food. We continue to be astonished at the pizzas that they sell over here - needless to say we didn't have one. Its a base with a bit of tomato and cheese - very popular I must say but for £7 it doesn't feel like much value to us when you can buy the same at a supermarket for 50 pence and add lots of your own toppings.  On Saturday, we headed off to Killerton - not far from Exeter - prepared for rather a long trip we were surprised to arrive in just over an hour - that is the UK motorways for you!! Killerton estate is huge - over 6000 acres.  Sir Richard Acland sold it cheaply to the National Trust in 1944 (includes 20 farms and 200 plus cottages).  He wanted money for his socialist party (he and JB Priestley worked together to set up the party). Richard's wife was horrified at his suggestion as so many farmers and families would lose their homes and livelihood.  She was rather fond of the place as while he was away fighting wars she managed the estate (although invalided with childhood polio) and was also a solo Mum. So, she convinced him to sell to the Trust so the farmers could continue to lease the land.  It is spring time over here (sorry to mention this as kiwis head into winter) and so we enjoyed the wander through the garden up the hill, through the wood (more mud - and how did we manage to get on the wrong side of the fence again?) up to the Iron Age Hill fort.  The fort is home to the Killerton Dragon - at least half of his time is spent here - the other half on the neighbouring hill across the valley (you can just see it in the distance - perhaps the mist was his hot firey breath).  The dragon flies between hills as he has a stash of treasure on both hills and needs to protect it which is why no-one has seen him in a while (he is always on the other side).  The rhododendrons, camellias and magnolias were just beginning to flower and the snowdrops and daffodils were out in all their splendour. Here in the garden was the shed which once did house a little bear bought back from overseas!!  Inside the large estate home was a display of fashion in the 1900's - all I can say is I am pleased I wasn't born into the gentry back then - would have found the whole dress up thing maddening and pointless. Six times a day most woman changed - morning dresses, afternoon dresses, evening gowns, suits, blouses and sporting clothes.  And corsets - yuck!! But the hats - I might have enjoyed. After that we took a quick trip along the road to Broadclyst a village forming part of the original estate and now the property of the Trust (or most of it). There is a medieval thatched cottage with some medieval wall paintings inside (which we didn't see cos it is only open in summer). Then we wandered past some more thatched cottages and inn and through the cemetery to the Clyston mill a water-powered corn mill which was also closed but it was a nice walk at the end of the day.























On the Sunday we decided to stay locally and went for a trip to Tyntesfield.  The house is in the throes of restoration and so we couldn't tour every room - but found it fascinating as it was purchased lock, stock and barrel by the National Trust and left just as the Gibbs family were out for the day.  The inventory stands at about 30,000 items and includes things like an unexploded WWII bomb (which we didn't see), a jewel-encrusted chalice, some huge marble fireplaces and heaps of old high backed chairs that have seen better days. Some fascinating wall carvings and wall paper (one room was hand painted cos when the paper was put up they decided it was too dark and so instead of stripping it and starting again the wall paper was hand painted in a lighter colour).  We liked the way the stables had been restored and made into the tearoom.