Monday, January 28, 2008

Budapest

. Monday night Harry spent three hours on his training course. I had an all day meeting on Tuesday at a big hotel outside Bristol. I thought it would be like a travel inn but it was an old building, with lots of high studs and huge garden beside a low security prison. I would have loved to have more time to look around it rather than sitting all day in a meeting but that is life!! (I am working with a relatively new team and so it was good to be together and get to know each other). The house is listed as a historic places trust and in one room there were floor to ceiling shelves (about 13 feet high) with teapots and other china. Then on Thursday I went down to Swansea for work. We enjoyed the sunshine as we sat in traffic (about 3 hours - a slight exaggeration but only slight) on the way home. I remember one sign we saw at on the way to Heathrow that said 'no hard verge for 4100 yards' - there were none of those. But there was a triangle with an upside down car - always a sobering prospect while you wait. It was too late to take any alternative routes. I have heard that it takes 3 hours to change one of the those interactive signs like we have in Ngauranga Gorge - how's that for up to date info! The colleague I went with had a 'Satnav' which told us we were in stationery traffic about 10 minutes after we started sitting. Wales is certainly a lovely country and I spent some time considering a tower in the distance, thinking if I could find it again I might go and explore, and studying the behaviour of a few horses in a near by field, and of course talked some work. We came back to an interesting announcement - government doesn't want any more embarrassing losses of personal data (there has been quite a few lately, with personal bank details etc on disk being lost and a few smacked hands at high and lower levels) and so a blanket stop to using laptops across Government outside buidings until they are encrypted. This covers not just laptops, but other portable media such as memory sticks, disks, PDAs and BlackBerries - you aren't even allowed to email work home. You can imagine the reaction from regular laptop workers. It will be interesting to see if it effects productivity over time and what it does to our carbon footprint for the next 4 months while we wait for appropriate software to be loaded onto all our laptops - back to using paper and pen - do they still make carbon paper? On Tuesday night we went around to a friends house for takeaways and Thursday night we dined out with Harry's workmates at an Italian restaurant. When Harry got home the other night he had a visit from the police. A little blue Volkswagen that visits a neighbour had been stolen sometime the evening before (between 4 and 6). I got home about 5.30 and can’t remember seeing it but that doesn’t mean it wasn’t there. I got distracted cos there was also a cute little morris minor ute parked close by which was a new visitor to our street. Harry couldn’t remember (it was after all a V dub rather than a Toyota). Sometimes I wonder if we will wake up one morning and find our car missing. Harry maintains that no one would want to steal a bright yellow citreon saxo – I don't see why not!! Other couple of interesting things that have happened - the ballots for children getting into primary school are just occurring and one guy at work has a little girl about to turn 5 and she didn't get into any of her 3 local schools - so, if their appeal isn't successful they face a long trip across their town to another. The ballot system is simply that and gives no preference to local children - again we wonder what that does to the carbon footprint? At work they are repairing the roof and there is scaffolding up to the fourth floor. Outside my window I can see an extension ladder placed between the third and fourth floor platforms and men go up and down it all day with wearing no safety gear securing them to the scaffolding. The ladder which also isn't attached shakes as I first see shoes, then legs and then bodies and helmets appear.
Friday night we left for Budapest. The flight over was entertaining and probably the cheapest part of the whole weekend. I stood for a while in the kitchen talking to some English people who worked in the travel industry. Interesting titbits about where to go next and they amusingly told me that 'Europe can't do service - but England knows how to do service'. Harry and my experience is actually the opposite - maybe our expectations and where we go are somewhat different. The plane was crowded with people enjoying the cheap flights, some slightly mischievous as the steward at one stage announced 'that the steward button was only for requesting assistance and if it was misused the passenger would be punished when we arrived on the ground'. Everyone laughed and many mentioned that perhaps the punishment was standing in the queues at the passport counter. When we arrived a trumpet played - heralding the 'ontime arrival of yet another Ryan air flight'!! We didn't hear the trumpet on the way back but that's another story for later.
Budapest - what a lovely city - only a few years (17 or so) after the communist regime it is not highly touristy but still offers the tourist plenty to see and experience. Saturday was a spectacular sunny day and we wandered over the Chain Bridge (built in 1849), one of 5 bridges over the Danube before touring the town on a 'Hop on hop off' bus. We took a bit of a tour around the town past the zoo, parliament, synagogues, down embassy street before visiting the Fisherman's Bastion. (designed and built between 1895 and 1902 - its seven towers represent the seven Magyar tribes that settled in the basin in 896. It is named after the guild of fishermen which was responsible for defending this stretch of the city walls in the Middle Ages. We enjoyed a coffee near the Matthias Church which is currently being restored (the guide kept saying it was being constructed) and wandered around the Castle quarter which is the core of the ancient town of Buda and has some important historical monuments back to about the 13th century (here we saw an unexpected medieval parade which someone was kind enough to explain what they were celebrating but we were too polite to ask when we didn't understand their strong Hungarian accent). Down in Pest was the Memorial to Heroes - a spectacular series of statues (full height is about 36 metres) - each leader from about 11th century and an engraving underneath to depict the leadership style ie aggressive, a war monger, a pacifist, an academic, a reconciler. We walked over to one of the many spas in the city (Szechenyi Spa Baths) managing to resist the smell of mulled wine from one of the many stands along the way. The Baths had many indoor and outdoor spa pools and it was an adventure getting to them. We eventually paid - and were waved in a direction - went through the door and waved along a corridor then waved up some stairs and then along some more corridors to the changing sheds. We went to shed 105 left our gear and then received a little bracelet with a different number on it. If we didn't remember 105 and what floor we were on we could have wandered for a long time trying to find our clothes. The outside pool was fairly busy and contained men playing chess in the pool (on special boards sitting on pedestals above the water) and a very amorous pair of women. Imagine the faces of the others in the pool when the women were joined by a male to make a threesome - it just got more amorous - it was so much fun looking at the faces in the crowd (and you couldn't resist looking at the 3). On the way back down Embassy Street we ducked into Burger King for a quick snack (no other places around) - its our first American takeaway since we came over even though they are in every city together with an Irish Pub and often an Australian Pub - not a bad record really but once we had sampled the food we knew why we weren't often tempted. In the evening we went for a Hungarian meal. We thought it would be quite fun (expected to be in a crowd but arrived at a very upmarket restaurant with few people in it - o.k. it is the off season). Had a cocktail, chicken pancakes, beautiful beef with tomatoes, chocolate dessert while listening and watching a quartet playing music, 2 opera singers and 2 dancers. One of the instruments was a cymbalom - never seen one before - we were told it is a Hungarian instrument and the web says it is a 'is a relation of the zither originated in 13th century Persia and became known in Hungary in the 16th century. The instrument is used to make dance music together with a violin and clarinet and was made by craftsmen for gypsy musicians'. It's a bit like a horizontal harp hit with soft drum sticks, and with a piano pedal. It was apparently designed by Jozsef V. Schunda music instrument manufacturer of Budapest in the 1870-s. Anyway, lovely instrument and we ended up buying the cd of the band so we could hear more (needless to say the cd is very disappointing and we can hear lots of violin but no cymbalom).











The Hungarian currency is the Forint and with about 350 forints to every £ we went over with our wallets stuffed. We felt like millionaires and expected it to go a long way. It didn't. At one stage we stood at a money machine contemplating whether we should get out 50000 or 100000 forints - my hand shook as I pressed the 6 digit figure. To get an idea of costs Burger King was 9000 forint, our tour on the bus was 14000 forint, visiting the synagogue was 12000 and so on. Somehow money seemed to lose its value. We did read somewhere that the Hungarians do accept euros but give change in forints - counting the change and converting to forints all in one go would have been a nightmare - anyway they were wrong most places wouldn't accept euros so the problem was solved by the visit to the money machine.
Sunday was wet - and so was spent mainly indoors in the morning visiting the Jewish sector of the city. Our hotel was in the middle of the Jewish sector and so we had walked past synagogues and lots of men with long beards and black hats the previous day (which was the Sabbath). We had a personalised tour of the world's second to biggest synagogue (largest is in New York) - a majestic building. In some ways the synagogue had been lucky - during the war the Germans had used it as a military radio station so although the lower parts were destroyed to make way for equipment the upper parts were generally untouched - unlike the other two we saw which are in various states of repair. Two interesting things (all synagogues have their services in Yiddish, not like Christianity who has no world wide language and there are no statues or idols in the churches). We had a sobering visit to the cemetery where many a Jewish family were buried after being forced to live in the ghetto. The reminder of the pain and suffering with the poignant 'weeping willow memorial' where every leaf has a name of a family or individual who died during the German occupation. A visit to the museum had some first hand photos of the despair and also many exhibits of the candelabra and torah. The trip was spoilt by our guide showing us a 'kosher' restaurant where we could eat and then without our knowledge ordering heaps of food we could not eat - and somehow we ended up paying for all of it including what she had ordered. Anyway, Harry loved the soup with Matzah ball (knaydelach) - just like Mum used to make - but the bean dish we could have both done without. In the afternoon we went back up to the Gillert Hill - climbed it in the wind and rain (our umbrella blew inside out - unheard of over here!!) and enjoyed a different view with clouds flying past as the evening came in.
Our trip to the airport was uneventful but we spent a long time in queues waiting for the plane and then were crowded into the bus for a 50 metre bus ride across the tarmac and then forced to stand out in the cold while people climbed one by one on to the plane (I heard a voice say - are we being punished for pushing the steward button - could he have been on our plane going over). We all felt colder as we watched a young man standing in the queue in a teeshirt. The plane was crowded and we were one of the last ones on - we walked to the back and had 3 seats each to ourselves as no one had gone down to the back for some reason - needless to say we took full advantage of that and watched the lights below us for a while before we snoozed our way back to Bristol.
































































































Monday, January 21, 2008

Brussels with Becks and Mike

This week Harry started his course on how to become a teacher in England - compulsory for anyone wanting to teach. So, he attended his first class with 3 others from his work and about 15 other students - all with different backgrounds - aromatherapy was one so it should make for an interesting course. Haz also went to the dentist this week and the filling became an extraction which wasn't very nice. I had quite an uneventful week really. One afternoon after it had rained most of the day one of the woman I worked with said ‘Come and see the girls stamping on the ground outside to make the worms come up’. I went to the window intrigued expecting to see little girls playing in the mud only to see 'gulls' doing an aerobic dance - they were busy for a long time so must have been getting a bit of feast! The other bit of news is that many people I have spoken to were very surprised to hear that Sir Edmund was a New Zealander.
Friday afternoon we left for Brussels. We had chosen to fly out from Heathrow because the flights were a lot cheaper than any we could find from Bristol. We left about midday to avoid hold ups on the motorway and except for a minor incident somewhere along the way, and the spray from the trucks causing problems with visibility the trip went o.k. British Airways had told us in the morning there were few delays due to the 777 crashing earlier on in the week and our plane would leave on time!! Don't ever believe them. We didn't get to Brussels till 10 that night. All the same interesting time to travel, we drove past the plane sitting forlornly on the runway while many investigators looked on (wearing the same yellow jacket as I have except they have SECURITY written on theirs!!), the same road that Gordon Brown's motorcade almost got hit by the airplane as it tried to land (well that's one newspaper story, the other was that he was sitting comfortably in Heathrow waiting for his flight that was delayed a measly 30 minutes). Oh for being important when it comes to flying!! Heathrow airport has 55 flights leaving every hour and we watched many of them take off as we were waiting in line.. We sat at Heathrow eating our dinner and listening to sky news for a number of hours (99% of it was about the 777 - wonder what that did for passenger confidence and the other 1% was about the English girl who got murdered in Taupo - rather a shame about that one). On the way back the captain said we would be delayed by 30 minutes, and then he said another 50 minutes and so on until we were up in the air and circled around the airport a number of times waiting for our cue to land (the landings had been reduced to about 20-30 an hour while the 777 was moved) - we got home at midnight rather than at 8.30.
Mike and Becks have a serviced business flat in a relatively new part of town not far from the airport. They have a car and a garage and we were lucky that one of their friends were away in the weekend so we could stay in her flat. On the Saturday, after finally finding a bus to take us into town, we toured Brussels on foot. It was a bit drizzly and not particularly warm so we wandered around with umbrellas, gloves and hats, ate a picnic lunch in a park near parliament and the palace, and had a waffle from a street stall. Streets were full of chocolater's and waffle shops (if we lived in Brussels I think Harry and I would become little 'dumplings' or should I say 'wafflings'). Some of the things that struck us about Brussels were


  • the architecture - it feels like a relatively 'new' city in many parts but the 80's and 90's buildings sit comfortable with the old - some good planning and design I'd say - some wonderful old buildings built around 1690's

  • statues, fountains and wall paintings are features of the city

  • the little mannequin pis is really cute - he has 801 outfits now (including an Elvis Presley one). He is quite a feature in souvenir shops as cork screws or an ornament

  • everything is bilingual - french and dutch - not much good for people with english and german but we got by

  • Mike and Becks had to buy their petrol in kilometres rather than litres

  • we didn't try the underground but the bus system seems quite efficient

  • it would be lovely to visit in spring - the market place built in the 1690's was fabulous and you could imagine it in spring time with the window boxes and gardens- what a picture it would be - heaps of gardens had pruned trees trained along frames (they looked a bit like wisteria but probably am wrong)

  • shopping looked good - Michael bought two sweatshirts (you can see both his new acquisitions in the photos) and I bought a jacket - Becks said that Belgium is only allowed two sales in a year, one in January and the other in July - it was sale season - but with only two days here we couldn't spent it all shopping!!




















Saturday night saw 4 very tired kiwis - we wandered to the supermarket and Mike cooked us a stir fry for tea before we collapsed into bed at an early hour. No going out enjoying the night life and the Belgium beer for us. Sunday, Becks drove us to Brugge - a very quaint town about an hours drive from Brussels. We enjoyed wandering around as the weather was a bit warmer. Went to one of the 19 museums (the medieval one) attached to a magnificent church (with Michaelangelo's Madonna and Child - what a treat to see them), some crypts with paintings, and lovely stain glass windows. We were surprised that the crypts were only recovered in the 1970's as there was no sign of a 'previous' life. Climbed the Belfort (300+ steps - spiral and narrow) and watched and listened to the bells and the clock chime (sat and saw the music being created with the round cylinder - none of us can remember what it is called!). Had a nice lunch in a cafe and had a horse and cart ride as the canal trips were closed for winter. Brugge like Brussels has wonderful statues, gardens (we could only imagine), old buildings and character. It's a place where I think we could spend a leisurely weekend, exploring the quaint buildings, churches and museums and we just might go back there one day....
























What a great weekend but saying goodbye is so hard...

Sunday, January 13, 2008

Cars and Cardiff

I recently got an email from a friend that said 'I think you're doing the right thing by consolidating with jobs and settling in over the winter but you're absolutely right to do the tourist thing on the weekend. My advice is never to give this up - this is after all the reason you went there in the first place and jobs etc. are essentially the means to do this with some comfort and security' and then he went on to say'the first year was establishment THIS year you mean BUSINESS!!' and all this from someone who made the same journey to us but in a different direction and is now enjoying living in Wellington, telling me of the sunshine and what a lovely city it is!! Why am I putting this in the blog? Its because we are now at the stage when we no longer feel like a tourist. When people ask us how long we have been here (we still have that kiwi accent) we can say 7 months and it no longer gets the reaction 'that's not long' . We are no longer getting lost everywhere we go and sometimes we almost forget the camera and Caramello. Life over winter can get a bit of a routine, work and coming home in the dark, settling down with a good book or dvd for the evening. It sems so easy to stop seeing new things, or to not see new things when we pass them while shopping or travelling somewhere else. We don't really believe in new years resolutions but I guess we don't want to stop being excited about being a traveller, we want to make more friends and to get involved in some activities outside travellling (that don't impinge on our weekend travelling). That does sound a bit like a new years resolution after all. And we have begun the right way ....It was an interesting week.
  • We went to Mamma Mia at the Hippodrome and enjoyed toe tapping and singing along (with our hoarse voices)
  • We learnt how to skype and now are in regular touch with Mike and Becks in Brussels - let us know if you are on skype as well and we can email you our address.
  • We had our first snow in Bristol - I seemed to be the only one excited about it at work - so much so that I had to send a couple of emails to friends to tell them. It snowed all afternoon but didn't really settle on the ground due to the rain. But when we arrived home - little Pierre looked very cold and white and so did lots of the other cars on the road. It was a bit cold biking home but the traffic was pretty much at a standstill so quite cruisy on the bike. I am knitting myself some leg warmers to keep soome of the winter chill out.
  • Haz managed to crack a filling this week and when he rang up the dentist down the road it was the one I enrolled in back when we moved here (funny I thought it was close to our other flat across the other side of town) - I must have known we would be moving (a little bit of forward thinking there!!).
  • Sir Edmund Hilary died - and this was headline news over here - it made us proud as kiwis to know that he had such recognition here - he achieved so much in his lifetime.
  • We found some cheap airfares to Budapest so heading there in a few weeks (the temperatures in the minuses so it is not surprising the airfares are cheap) - will have to buy a Hungarian language book and enjoy finding out places to visit on the web
  • And we found a reasonable Indian take away not far from here. This weekend Haz and I took off to different parts of the country. Haz to Birmingham to the International Auto Sport Show 'a cocktail of static displays and live racing' and a 'chance to get close to stars of the track, formula one drivers David Coulthard, Jensen Button, and Mark Webber' as well as rally champion Marcus Gronholm'. Haz and his work mates were in their element as you can imagine. He was intrigued by the number of specialist supplies and so much that you could buy to improve the performance of a race car (Pierre doesn't fit quite into that category much to Haz's disappointment). Every type of motor racing class was represented from formula one to the most basic club type cars and road cars (from kitset cars to Ferraris). He enjoyed watching the live action arena where cars raced around a hall on a slippery surface. Kids drove the go-karts, a range of cars including a 8.5 litre V8 drag car. The special show would have seen heaps of envious bystanders I imagine. The National Exhibition Centre is impressive and expansive complex which apparently holds a number of other shows like the British International Motor show (wonder if I will see Haz over summer?).

To get him there for the 9.00 opening we were up and out of the house by 6.45 (the new scraper for the window works well) and after dropping him at work I drove to Newport to see Anne. After another breakfast (needed to wake me up after such an early start) we headed off to Cardiff - a city we had passed a few times but I have never explored. It is probably now on the top of my list of 'nice cities' and I need to go back to explore it more. Anne and I first ventured into the shopping mall (a number of streets have been made into malls and the markets) and then went to the museum to see the 'Red Lady'. The skeleton of the 'Red Lady', complete with jewellery and a mammoth's head grave marker, is regarded as one of the world's most important archaeological finds (they reckon she is about 29000 years old!!). She was discovered in 1823 at Paviland Cave on the Gower but removed from Wales shortly after. Originally she was called the 'Red Lady' because she was 'red' as the ochre and iron she had been buried with had that effect. They later decided she was a small male of special social stature probably a chieftain but the Red Lady tag has stuck. What we saw was bits of a skeleton laid out like a human sleeping and no jewellery. There is a campaign to get her/him permanently back to Wales (from Oxford where she has lived since her discovery) a bit like the Maori heads that our government is trying to get returned. I have begun to realise there is something important about allowing them back into their home country - its hard to put into words but for me its about 'spiritual importance and letting them rest at home'. A museum official (one of those that stand around all day making sure we don't steal or touch exhibits) recognised our accents and said his inlaws lived in Rotorua - he was so keen to go to NZ to visit the wildlife etc - but was just too busy. It made me a bit sad that he had a dream but he wasn't going to make it happen.
We visited Cardiff Castle in the centre of town and not far away from the new Millenium Stadium. The Castle was built in the 1800's on the top of some Roman ruins and is quite spectular. The building was owned by the Marquis of Bute (who owned 15 other properties) and came here for his 6 week summer holiday each year. Most rooms were done in ornate Victorian era decorations (some with paintings of the 12 zodiac signs, four seasons, statues of the family - gold and silver leaf) while one room was done in Georgian style, plainly painted and with large paintings of the family. We stood in the first room ever to have electricity in Cardiff, found out that the hole in the dining table was not for the umbrella but for the grape vine to grow so you could pick your own grapes, and saw an ornate monkey statue that when you squeezed his cheeks the head butler arrived (the monkey looked a bit like Gladstone - rather a derogatory gesture as the Marquis family were Conservative). The ladies had their tea in a room surrounded with stained glass windows and prisms to give light effects as the sun moved around the room. The guide told us that the current Marquis (Johnny Dumfries) was a Formula One racing car driver - but Haz didn't think so - onto the net to see who was right. He was a Formula One driver for Lotus in 1986, he also won Le Mans in 1988.
It started to rain sometime during our 'coffee break' and so we drove around the docks (so like Wellington in that it seems to be the hub of the town - with lots of lights and restaurants, Welsh Assembly, Millenium conference and events centre) and its claim to fame is that Doctor Who is filmed here. You can see why as the conference centre looks like a huge space ship. Anne takes off for New Zealand in a few days time, and other friends leave not long after her. The kiwis are returning, some for good and some for a holiday - we just can't stay away.