Our last two days in Whanganui

New years day. Perfect for sitting beside the river watching speed boat racing. It's rather a slow sport for watching. Slow start because of the tide. Pauses for the paddle boat and time to pick up floating branches meant there were reasonably long waits between races. I thought of my ear plugs sitting in my sponge bag back at the cabin. Beside me, Harry updated me about engines and tactics. I watched four races, ate lunch, had a cup of tea, kissed Harry goodbye leaving him happily sitting in the sun cooled by rather a strong breeze. A couple of hours later racing stopped due to the wind and I had enjoyed a long walk along the cycle path nearly reaching castle point before turning back. 

Last day of our holiday and we drove 20 km or so down a partly gravel road to the Waitahinga Trail.  Harry has proved he is ready for Kaukau. The paths wound up and down through vines, pongas, ferns and massive rimu trees.  Stopping to look at the view was essential otherwise we would have tripped over gnarled roots, low lying vines and rotten tree trunks.  Pink and orange triangles guided the way or there would have a lot of lost walkers along the way.

A kid goat bleating looking for his Mum, birds chirping and a few other hikers enjoying the scenery.

 There wasn't a dust free shady place to have lunch so we drove back to Kai Iwi beach, where the sun shone and the tide was so high if I had wanted a walk it would have been a swim.  I finished my book La Prisoniere (a very sad true story).  And then went back to hear more about the Australian fires - frightening and devastating.

More walking around

We started the day at Palemo Gardens about 30 minutes drive south of the city where Clive and Nicky started planting in the early 80's. Palm trees grown from seed now stand majestically guarding the house and garden (together with the noisy dachshunds).  The bamboo garden stood high and the lake a perfect background for a wedding (starting at 4 this afternoon). Heaps of cactus (wished we had worn long trou) and pottery and quirky places for cups, chandeliers and tea pots.  We lunched at Lake Wiritoa. The grass area was carless until we settled into chairs and opened our lunch boxes. Then about 6 arrived at the same time together with boats, jetskies and biscuits. Whanganui really does have it all - lake, sea, river, opera week (that lasts 13 days) and a vintage weekend.

We then went for a tour of Putiki church. We arrived an hour early (with the intention of a walk and a bit of an explore). A crowd was forming by the gate so we took our chances and joined. The Churton family reunion plus us and another two. Two guides Simon our official one who told us about the paintings and weaving. We should have escaped - but didn't. On came the other guide. Another 45 minutes of listening to family history. The church was built in 1935 - the others were made from brick (didn't get through earthquake), made from white pine (borer, rats, rot) and sandstone (local but crumbling). Reminded me of a fairy tale that starred three little pigs.

It was the sunniest day so far, lovely and warm. Perfect for relaxing with a good book. In the evening we did the walk along the river between the three bridges. Dinner was at a pub called The Red something with a view of the river - rather a nice way to spend new year's eve and the food was very good. And then Die Hard 2 is on tv (together with the Trivago ad every ad break - I promise never to use  them - there is something about too much advertising).

Up to Pipiriki

Today was our river road tour. Another fairly late start saw us meandering up the road - lots of stops on the way. We walked for an hour up to a viewpoint. Disappointingly not through a lot of native bush. About half way up we joined a track which was possibly made for vehicles when they were exploring the possibility of creating a hydro power dam which never eventuated.  It was the first hot day we've had and we were prepared for cold - no sunblock and  only one bottle of H2O. Tuis sang, bees buzzed around the flowering manuka. Way below were the hives. Real manuka honey in the making flavoured with dandelions and gorse. The view was ok - but not as spectacular as we had seen along the road. From the top the river was hidden, but lots of manuka and pongas intermingled with more gorse made for a pretty scene.

We had lunch at a park beside the road. Sheltered and with a slight fragrance of compost in the air. We didn't stay long. Next stop was the culvert created during the building of the road. Rather pretty. The road wound it's way  around using the same contours as the river. Each bridge hid a narrow and deep cataract gorge, water running below but often hidden by the bush.

Then there were the maraes. Quite a number, beautifully renovated and welcoming. 

Jerusalem was our next stop. Little catholic church perched on the hill. Inside a blend of Catholicism with Maori culture. Outside the Virgin  Mary surrounded by plum trees and hydrangeas. Harry had a snooze in the car and I enjoyed a read in the shade and an explore of the school and orphanage - home to Sister Suzanne Aubert and somewhere close by James K Baxter lived in his commune.

Then on to Pipiriki - the end of the line. Harry had memories as a teenager arriving here  from his kayaking trip down the river. We came to the end of the road and instead of finding a landing spot we came across over flowing waste management containers and rusty whiteware - a reminder that humans can destroy anywhere even when it is remote and beautiful.

Last stop before a fish and chip dinner was the oyster cliffs - fossilized oysters who once lived in the sea now occupy the crumbling sandstone cliffs.