Sunday, January 6, 2019

We found a rail trail ...

Scottsdale is an hours drive from Launceston. We stopped in the little town yesterday after discovering a rail trail sign. We found the bike shop (closed this afternoon and Sunday - half expected a sign saying "gone mountain  biking, back sometime"). After lunching in a little park and making some small talk with a local we went up to the visitors centre to see where we could hire a bike. The first notice said open from 9 to 5 but the second notice said "closed early". That didn't happen in Dolly Parton's song. The local watched us try to open the door and then signalled to come over - she had closed early because it wasn't busy. She thought we could hire bikes at the art gallery but had some doubt in her voice. The gallery was just down the road and besides selling some lovely glass ware and jewelry also sold coffee and cake and yes hired bikes. All arranged for the next day.

We were driven to the start of the 25km trail. First 75% was down hill - I kid you not! A great opportunity to enjoy the tree fern glades and the occasional pine forest. When the slight hill started towards the end of the trip the trees no longer sheltered the path, the sun was out and the wind came up. We were longing for some exercise and got it. My unreliable pedometer on the phone suggested I had walked 11000 steps - not bad for going down hill with no effort.

We were told we might see wallabies (we did) and snakes (we didnt). Bird life also seemed a bit scarce as were other humans (I think we saw 6 over the 25 km stretch).

I always find rail trails are a time of reflection. Men spent their lives building tracks which open up huge areas of countryside and provide a life line to the residents of communities. I am assuming the workers thought they would last forever. Then there is little demand for the rail transport and they are all torn up, flattened and enjoyed by cyclists thanks to local community groups like rotary.  Ironic really since I am a strong advocate of rail for safety and economic reasons.







We stopped at Bridport for a cup of tea. It was a tad windy and we found a new hobby "tea bag flying". 
 There appears to be a lot of road kill around here and the main victim are little creatures from the kangaroo family.  Interesting thing is there are very few scavengers around to clear up the mess.

Our final stop was Grindelwald- a must see according to locals. We pictured a little swiss village lining the road with lots of cafes and novelty shops. Not so - a bit more like an amusement park with cafes that close at 4 (we arrived at 3.58 to late for our waffles and strawberries) and amusement things like paddle boats, jumping pillows and mini golf. All the buildings were swiss style including many of the surrounding houses.





Dinner was at a Thai place - 6 minutes by car says Mr Google - we took a tiki tour and it took about 30 minutes.

Up the east coast and across to Launceston

We have finally arrived in Laucenston and are sitting on the porch having a well earned cup of tea.  The temperature has dropped from the low 40's yesterday to high teens and we are feeling a tad chilled. Back to long sleeves for our morning adventures. Our first stop after the supermarket was Bay of Fires. At first the orange rocks were a bit underwhelming but after a further 11 km ride we saw the beauty of orange rocks, blue sea, grey sky and wild sea shore plants in a place called the Garden.




Moving on we stopped at Columbia falls - a local had suggested that it was worth a visit. They didn't mention the stunning walk down to the bottom of the falls.





In the evening we visited Cataract Gorge. Our little Airbnb is just up (and I really mean up) the road from this world famous place. We wandered past wallabies and watched babies move in their pouches and peacocks and peahens look after their babies (little peas?).  Had a great walk and more to explore another day. After dinner (nectarine, raspberry and sorrel side salad was the best) we wandered up the 191 steps and rather a long road back to our digs.





Friday, January 4, 2019

East coast here we come

We stopped at Richmond where the very first aussie bridge was built. Very like the little stone bridges in the UK. Over here rivers are called rivulets. We thought initially it could be another name for creek or stream but rivulets are pretty wide. Then we went to the little model village of Hobart in the 1820's and looked down the streets that were once edged by water and now by industry and shops.



 Look at the little ducks feet.


We drove through Pontypool, Glamorgan and Swansea and decided that the Welsh must have  been the first settlers here. Definitely confirmed when we drove over the Wye river (not a rivulet).  Up to a national park where we saw a sign to a water hole. What a find. Nice shaded walk to a refreshing pool (the car said it was 46 in the car park).  The wind was hot in Swansea and didn't seem to cool us down much.





I forgot to mention our stop at Orford. Beautiful golden sand. The harbour had been made with what could be large sand bags. They were fenced off with signs telling us it was prohibited to walk near them. Everyone ignored this as they were the best place to swim. There were ropes to help people clamber up, so it felt quite surreal. We disobeyed the signs too and as you can see they were more fun than just walking along the sand.






It was my birthday today. Thank you for all the birthday wishes.  Lucas and Connie both sent me videos. We had a nice dinner in St Helen's and then came back to take advantage of free wifi.



Around Hobart

It is getting warmer. Mid 30's today and our last day before we say goodbye to our noisy inner city room.  We drove up Mount Wellington. I was keen to walk but Harry suggested that the 22 km 1200 meter climb might be a bit much in 30 degree heat. I reluctantly gave in.  Amazing place looking over the river, sea and city. A bit hazy from the large forest fire in Gordontown but still worth the visit.







Then onto Mona (Museum of old and new art). We weren't sure about this place but since it was one of the few places that had a brochure at the airport and visitors centre we decided to try it. Some interesting art but the dark hallways and continual back tracking required to get to exhibits did my head in. Some interesting ones included plastic bags full of water and a black pathway that made you feel you were very high up rather than six centimeters. I liked the outdoor exhibits best particularly the concrete mixer and trampoline with bells underneath. Enough to drive any parent mad.







And then the highlight of Tasmania so far. A 2.5 hour walk in the Mount Fields natural reserve. Wandered to three waterfalls Russell, Horseshoe and Lady Barron.  Great paths, scenery and lots of steps. Reminded us once again that Tassie seems a bit of a hybrid as pongas grow beside eucalyptus trees.







Boat trip and Port Arthur

We drove down to Port Arthur today. On the way we visited the Tessalated Pavement.  Lucky it was low tide because we saw them at their best.  Caused by erosion we were reminded of the giant causeway in Ireland. Whoever said nature doesn't come in straight lines? Hundervasser? Well he was wrong.



Then on to Port Arthur. We didn't realise that the historical village was gated and you needed to pay to enter. We would have but didn't have enough time to wander around before the boat trip. Some locals have since said we have missed something special but after seeing New Caledonia and Norfolk Island we thought we would give it a miss.  The bus driver who took us to the boat implied that this was a great place to be a convict but I think history tells us a different story.  Certainly the model village in Richmond told the story of murdered aboriginal people and poorly treated convicts. But back to the boat trip where we saw amazing cliffs (dolomites like the pinnacles and more), dolphins, seals. Brown petals, albatrosses. The guide and helmsman was so excited at seeing these even after 20 years of taking tourist around.  It really wasn't like any boat trip we had had before. We were given long red gowns to keep dry and warm and there were seat belts fitted. Here is a few photos, more to come if Harry ever loads them from his camera.