Sunday, September 19, 2010

Kilmarnock

This blog is taking a long time to write - partly because we haven't felt much in the holiday spirit since Mum has been unwell - it is so hard being over here with her on the other side of the world. But, I will do my best with writing this up as a 'true and accurate' record of our holiday. It seems so long ago that we were sitting in the pub in Kilmarnock receiving advice from the crew. They recommended visits to Kelburne Castle, Electric Brae, Robbie Burns Cottage and Culzean Castle. I think they would have been surprised if they knew we managed all 4 in one day. Kelburne Castle was worth seeing because of the garden and the graffiti on the castle walls, we were told, and driving up to it in the cold and rain we did initially have our doubts. The garden provided a gentle stroll and was one of those that even with a map we managed to get lost in - so we walked a bit further than necessary. There was an elderly larch tree which we could walk under and shelter from the rain and a little New Zealand garden. Little did the locals know but there was something else beside the garden and the graffiti that stirred our heart. Kelburne castle is the home to the Boyles (who in the early 1900's one of the ancestors David was a Governor General to New Zealand). His son was Viscount Kelburne (hence our local city suburb being called after him) and inside a little tin hut built especially as a museum were NZ collectibles - black and white photos of our home town - the cable car, government house, Lambton Quay, Hunter Building where I slept through many a lecture and the family farm at Ruanui in the Taranaki.





















There is something quite uplifting about riding along in the car in Scotland, windows wide open, listening to the bag pipes (a friend from Scotland didn't quite believe that statement). But this is what we did heading south to the house where Robbie Burns was born and lived. Robbie Burns, whom we have heard so much about but know so little was born in the mid 1700's to a farming family. One of four children they lived in a little stone house. Robbie didn't take to farming life (how many other famous people have had this start to their young lives) but preferred to read, write, create and imagine - just the criteria for becoming Scotland's national poet. He wrote some well known poems like Auld Lang Syne and lesser known ones (to me that is) like A Red, Red Rose.
O my love is like a red red rose
That's newly sprung in June
O my love is like the melodie
That's sweetly play'd in tune

The museum down the road had a video of Tam O' Shanter - the poem about people of the drinking classes in the old Scots town of Ayr in the late 18th century. There are a number of characters like Tam himself, Souter, Johnnie and his Kate who had somewhat of a reputation: "Gathering her brows like gathering storm, nursing her wrath to keep it warm". The poem starts in the early evening once Tam had had a few. After delaying leaving for a while because he didn't want to face his Kate he rides into the woods at Kirk Alloway and meets the devil and some witches in a church (it is a lovely little derelict church sitting amidst grave stones and it is hard to imagine that the devil or witches would feel comfortable cavorting in such a peaceful place - but that is imagination for you). Tam eventually escapes,decides that Kate is preferable to devils and witches and rides his horse (Meg) across the little stone bridge at Brigadoon - they nearly escaped unscathed but Meg lost her tail to the witches - I wonder what Kate said about that. There is some nice lines in the poem like: "But pleasures are like poppies spread, You sieze the flower, its bloom is shed; Or like the snow falls in the river, A moment white--then melts for ever". So, we wandered around took some photos and then went into the little church with the commemorative windows across the road from Tam's church. Well, we had begun to think all churches were the same - from the outside they often are - but this was a little treasure inside. There were a number of commemorative stained glass windows to important people eg
  • Robbie Burns (not surprisingly) which was installed in 1996 to mark the bicentenary of his death
  • The four seasons (no important people here but shows the four seasons in rather a picturesque way)
  • Marie Cubie - who devoted her life to teaching and peace
20 windows in all.



















Driving down south (with the pipes still playing) we drove to the Electric Brae - a curiosity worth seeing we were told - but I am afraid neither of us got it. To quote: "The ELECTRIC BRAE, known locally as 'CROY BRAE'...the configuration of the land on either side of the road provides an optical illusion making it look as if the slope is going the other way. Therefore a stationary car on the road with the brakes off will appear to move slowly uphill"...I thought I had some imagination, but when we stopped in the middle of the road - we thought we were pointed down hill and we were, and further along we thought we were pointed up hill and we were again...so somewhere along the line we missed the point but had some fun trying to find it.
The last stop on the expedition that the locals told us about was Culzean Castle - we were given instructions on how to get there and how to get in without paying (park down the road, wander down the cliff path, walk along the beach, and up the other cliff path), it didn't really matter to us as it was a National Trust property and the castle was closed, but somehow we knew we would have got terribly lost while searching for the 'freebie' entrance. We enjoyed the wander through the gardens the cup of tea by the lake and the quick brisk walk through the castle grounds to the stony beach below. The castle is famous by the way - its picture features on one side of the five pound note (presumably the Scottish note). There are also some American connections here cos in 1945 the family gifted the castle to the National Trust but gave the top apartment Dwight Eisenhower to say thanks for his role as Supreme Commander of the Allied Forces in Europe during the Second World War.

















Saturday, September 11, 2010

Starting our Holiday in Scotland

We ended the working week quite hurriedly having not been particularly organised.  What with trying out more vegetarian recipes (leek and potato pie and pumpkin pie) for guests (Chris) during the week who had time for packing? Not me!! We started off early on Friday afternoon in the hope we wouldn't get caught up in summer holiday traffic.  No such luck.  We joined a queue, quickly reviewed our plans and went past the long snake of cars around the round about and along some A and B through little Cotswolds villages - quite a pleasant option. After finding the hotel without much trouble we went to the nearby restaurant for a roast.  Here the chef dished up our dinner and asked "Do you want some seasoning?" as he pointed to stuffing. Not wanting salt and pepper but wanting stuffing we asked for clarification with a confused look and he gave us the explanation in rather a long winded way (we wondered if our dinner was going to get cold while we patiently agreed with him).  It seems that the restaurant owners have said customers were not to be asked "Would you like stuffing?" - its impolite and just not pc. Instead seasoning is the new pc term.  After discussing this over dinner at length (and some further possibilities for pc to go mad) we drove into Lutterworth (home to Frank Whittle – inventor of the jet engine and John Wycliffe - famous 14th century Methodist) to the supermarket where we bought tomorrows lunch (our new chilly box already coming in handy).  Returning to the hotel, thanks to road works we took the long route back - the 'diversion' signs even confounding the locals.
Why not start a holiday with a discussion about the weather!! While sitting in a pub waiting for our dinner at the end of the holiday we were perusing the wine list - this came about not only because we wanted a glass but also when Harry ordered a medium white he was told that he could only have small or large.  Anyway, the wine list was quite comprehensive with wines from many countries including NZ, Australia, Chile, Argentina, Spain, France and fairly good descriptions of their taste and effect - quite a good source of adjectives for describing the weather when you get tired of the same old same old...vivacious, lingering, sparkling, robust, powerful, lively, refreshing, energetic, crisp, full of character, generous, full bodied, invigorating, clear, intense, complex and fresh. That pretty much sums up the lack of sunshine.
But it is summer time and that is when hay is reaped. After passing many fields with hay in various states of manufacture we began to wonder if the making of hay in some way reflects the personality of the farmer. You may laugh, but just think about it for a mo - we saw some hay still growing, some cut, some bales (round, square, oblong), some bales randomly left in the fields, some neatly stacked in a pile or distractedly piled into an insecure tower, some wrapped in green plastic, others black and some clear.  One farmer had scrimped a bit on the wrapping and each bale had a narrow clear band around the middle making it look like an obese egg timer. Doesn't this reflect the well organised farmer, or the orderly, the risk taker, the trusting one (of the weather forecaster - believe me not a thing to do over here), the procastinator who hasn't yet reaped the golden grass from the land etc etc.  It's a pity I couldn't get more photos - but most of the time there wasn't a safe place to stop.


On Saturday morning I woke up early – there is something bizarre about longing for a sleep in on Monday to Friday and then in the weekends not being able to. But there was lots to do - far more exciting than going to work. Grimes Grave is a Neolithic flint mine, which from the top looks a bit like a grassed over moonscape (lots of bumps and dips) and from below (down a 30 step near vertical ladder) is a deep tunnel with lots of little caves where 5000 years ago people hacked and hacked to get the flint out.  Harry spent a while lying on the ground taking photos of some rubble and looking a little bit silly – but what the heck he enjoyed it – and then spent all day in very dusty black trousers (I suggested that he walked behind me in his dusty attire and sat at a different table for dinner but that fell on deaf ears!).  Anyway, back to the stone age...they dug a hole with antlers and stones, took out all the flint and then covered the mine in and started another not far away.  Hence the circular indentations in the local ground.  The guide (who incidentally didn't go down the mine with us) was full of historical trivia which had little to do with the workers at Grimes Graves but was sort of interesting all the same...
  • Hey Diddle Diddle  - Diddle was the farmer.  He wanted to buy some land off the monks in the nearby abbey but they didn't want to sell.  Diddle decided to send his daughter (cat) to seduce the head of the abbey (cow).  The dog gargoyles at the monastery laughed and the daughter (dish) ran away with the spoon (the chef at the monastery whom she was in love with).
  • A flash in the pan – if there was not enough gun power in the gun pan then there would not be a  big enough flash for the gun to go off in a flint lock gun.
  • To go off half cocked - to fire the gun pull firing lever – half way while loading the pan – if you forget to fully cock it then it wouldn’t be enough spark and wouldn’t fire the gun.
True or false - who knows?  We lunched in the picnic spot next to the signs that said sheep liked to wander and picnic as well but we didn’t see any thankfully (after our Sugarloaf experience we were quite relieved).



An hour later we were driving through pine forests (the first we have seen in England), an oak tree avenue before arriving at Sandringham – where the Queen and her family spend most of their Christmases. The house was built in 1870 by the Prince and Princess of Wales (later King Edward VII and Queen Alexandra).  The house was typically full of memorabilia and ornate, the museum gave us an insight into the royal family over the last few decades – the cars they drove and were driven in – some interesting photos.  There was a 1900 Daimler Phaeton, a Merryweather fire engine which sat around waiting for a fire and several mini kid cars that the kids played in. I sat for a while in the sun and noticed an elderly lady worryingly telling staff that she couldn’t find her husband – after a few ‘aren’t you lucky’ comments I realised that she was actually quite concerned.  He did eventually turn up.  The highlight of the visit was the garden - one of my favourite flowers the hydrangea a surprise contributor.  We wandered around the lake and the stream and picnicked in the park. (Now for a blonde moment - obviously hungry I passed one of the shops and asked Harry if he "had ever tried pickled strawberries?" Yes they were selling them according to the board outside and I marched in to buy some only to be followed by Harry telling me the sign said "freshly picked"  and not "pickled").  And on to the most exquisite little church that is open during the visitor season but I think closed to the public when the royals come to stay.  It has an altar and pulpit in finally engraved silver (someone would have to pay me a lot to keep it clean).  There was an aircraft museum on the way to Peterborough and I sat in the car and only managed to read the front page of the newspaper before Harry returned (a record for him – could he be losing interest I wondered?  No it was close to closing time).  We spent a while driving around Peterborough trying to find the hotel – having taken the right turning off the main road but the wrong road after it (the story of our lives).  We went and had a look at the cathedral (from the outside it looked massive – but it was closed) and after sheltering from a passing shower we found a Thai restaurant which we would probably revisit if we ever went back to the city.




"On the road again
Just can't wait to get on the road again
The life I love is making music with my friends
And I can't wait to get on the road again.
On the road again
Goin' places that I've never been
Seein' things that I may never see again
And I can't wait to get on the road again".
It was definitely travelling time again.  It was only 3 hours to our next stop - through James Herriot country, through the pink Yorkshire moors into Goathland where Heartbeat and parts of some the Harry Potter movies were filmed.  We wandered the streets with the tourists and the sheep, past the little garage, railway station, shop and pub.  




And onto Whitby - a little English seaside villages - where pedestrians walk on the road because the footpaths are too narrow and parking is a long way from the centre.  We crawled through the town and up the hill to 
Whitby Abbey which stands on a cliff over looking the harbour.  On this Sunday afternoon, we sauntered past the Abbey and down the steep cobbled stone path (having missed the path to the 199 steps), and walked shoulder to shoulder with hundreds of others to Grape Lane where Captain Cook lived as a teenager and dreamt about becoming a captain.  It was in this town that his three ships were built (Endeavour, Resolution and Adventure).We circled the port in a 1940’s life boat – and found some fish and chips to eat on the wharf (not plagued by sea gulls).  One of the books I have of walking in England told us a little of the history of this town:
  • ·         In Church Street in the 1600’s alum was manufactured.  One of the important ingredients for processing alum is alkaline which helps to keep the colours fast.  A very good place to find alkaline is in one's urine.  So people saved it up and sold it - better than throwing it on the streets I guess.  Huge vats of it were stored in this street – it is from this that the saying ‘take the piss’ comes from - and I gather the street didn't smell too aromatic during that century.
  • ·         The black stone known as jet is local to this area and comes from the fossilised remains of the monkey puzzle tree.
·         




















The next morning was spent in Newcastle - we have wanted to go there for a long time as Harry's Grandmother lived here in West Moreland Road. We think it was from here that the family left for Kiwiland. Like all our Grandparents English homes this one no longer existed but we walked up and down the street wondering if it was now a disused car yard or perhaps part of the Newcastle College. We wandered past the museum now housed in one of the oldest buildings in the street to get a feel for those bygone years and helpful librarians in Archives found us a photo of the corner of a house in the same street back in the late 1800's. There was a photo of 'blind back' houses - no back windows and backing on to an industrial waste heap. Walking back to the hotel along the river we found 5 bridges in less than a kilometre – the place was a full of bird poop and so we walked hurriedly along until I saw a board which talked about the nesting of the kittiwakes – not the normal sea gull scavengers - they spend most of their life out at sea and when they come ashore they like to nest under the bridges. The downpour arrived just as we finished our walk – not bad timing as others rushed for cover. We drove to Alnwick and it hadn't stopped raining so we sat in the car park and had lunch, not quite managing to summon the energy to walk in torrential rain through the garden and around the castle (which from a leaflet looked quite worth a visit). This is where one of Harry’s NZ workmates was born and the next stop Berwick on Tweed was where the workmate worked for a while before immigrating to NZ. Walked for a bit on the beach enjoying the salt and seaweed smell (no joke) we walked through the town and around a bit of the wall that is left and headed towards Lindisfarne in the hope that we had timed the low tide for our visit - no such luck and not surprising since we had not planned to visit the island which an only be accessed during low tide. After this it was on to Kilmarnock where we threw our bags in the hotel room and went for dinner – being a Monday night we weren’t hopeful of getting much. But there was a local pub down the road which sold fairly good food and had a quiz on which we joined in on (we have decided not to call ourselves the Kiwis anymore – as coming last is not a good image – it is the Wallabies from now on). The staff were great and after the quiz they must have felt sorry for us cos they came up to chat and to tell us a few places we could go and see – so that is tomorrow – all ready organised – thankfully not a lot of car riding tomorrow – I have had enough for a day or so.  It was probably about now that Cheryl my sister left a message on our cell phone to say Mum was going down hill.  We didn't get the message for some reason, but even without that message a shadow was over our holiday knowing that someone we care about is not well.