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If ever you want a good coffee in England we would suggest hopping on the Isle of Wight ferry just for the sheer joy of a very large, hot coffee that tastes like real coffee. We were amused by the lid on the disposable cup Huhtamaki – it sounded so Maori but looking at the web at home – it is actually a Dutch packaging firm. We sat outside on the way over with all the other tourists, I think most of the locals sat inside in comfort, but we did eventually give in and sat on the top deck in the ‘animal’ enclosure which protected us from most of the rain and cold breeze but still gave us a 180 degree view of the sea and the island. We shared it with a very big black and ginger dog who had a coat on to keep him warm. We drove to the Needles at Alum Bay on the other side of the island (its about 10 miles across so nothing takes too long). Besides enjoying the fabulous views from the 18th century gun emplacements we enjoyed rambling over hills and the climb down to the beach of 188 steps (in summer you can catch a chair lift but it was closed and it really did spoil the naturalness of the place). Anyway, on the beach where we stood Queen Victoria many years before watched the ‘enchanting coloured sands in Alum Bay and was presented with samples in glass containers’. If we wanted we could have still bought some – or if we weren’t environmentalists at heart we could have collected our own. The limestone cliffs are slowly being eroded away and it was fascinating to see a ‘man made’ building slowly being eaten by sea that is one of the photos.
By then it was getting darkish (3.30) and so we found a little b and b on the road to Ventnor and then wandered around Ventnor in the rain and the dark. At 4.30 we were feeling like dinner but decided that we should wait a while so wandered up some roads past some shops which we thought would be closed but weren’t and I bought some tops and some Christmas crackers with cats on and Harry a pair of gloves. We arrived back at the pub and found everyone else was already eating. Our little table in the ‘poop’ was cute and while we ate hotpot and cottage pie we could see the waves crashing in and the rain beating on the window. At our b and b the next morning we saw our first red squirrel hanging upside down from a tree. The grey squirrel is apparently native to America and is considered a ‘pest’ someone bought it into England (it could have been Sir Walter Raleigh when he bought gifts to Queen Elizabeth I – he really did it was in the movie) and now of course it is threatening the native red squirrels food etc. We were told that the Isle has no grey squirrels and we were also told that when a captain of the ferry discovered that someone had bought grey squirrels in their car he turned the ferry around and went back to Southampton – no law or tight customs regulations– but obviously the locals care. Sunday morning was very wet so we decided to catch an early ferry as everything we wanted to see was either closed for winter or outdoor (which meant we would get wet and cold!!). Next time we go back we will walk the gorges and the beaches and perhaps go to the miniature village and the wildlife sanctuary. We drove to Beaulieu via a little tidal flour mill. The Eling Tide Mill has been making flour for 900 years (some bits have been replaced over time so you could probably say that most of the mill is younger than that). Each day, when the tide comes in it fills the millpond and then as the tide falls the trapped water spins the water wheel, which turns the stones, which crushes the wheat into flour. The wheat makes very nice ginger biscuits and the ones we bought are now all gone. Beaulieu was huge, park like surroundings with a palace where Lord Montagu and his family have lived for years and abbey ruins. To modernise it they have added a car museum, James Bond exhibition, monorail, playstation exhibition and simulators and an exhibition of Stately Omes of England (SOE stands for Special Operations Executive – they trained spies during the second world war). If it hadn’t been raining cats and dogs I would have spent all my time wandering the gardens but instead did a quick skirt of the abbey (I was the only one there) where my umbrella was blown inside out (thought that didn’t happen in England), a longer look at the palace (they had a huge log fire burning in the dining room and heaps of family portraits dating from a few hundred years ago to 2002), and watched the video on the SOE’s before a 10 minute sojourn into the car museum. Guess where Harry spent most of his time?? We drove home in the dark – a long trip on narrow, wet and busy roads. The English sure know how to make puddles!! Now off to finish my book that is set in Bristol....